Yes, I know it’s early to be thinking of Christmas – but not if you are thinking of going on a possible vacation to Italy to celebrate the holiday season. So here is my Christmastime in July holiday post. If you like this post let me know – so enjoy and share it with your friends!
Many are surprised to learn, that Christmas isn’t considered the biggest holiday of the winter season in Italy. That honor, belongs to the Epiphany – on January 6th, exactly twelve days after Christmas Day. . Spending Christmastime in Rome, seems an obvious choice, as the city surrounds the heart of the Catholic faith – St. Peter’s Basillica, in Vatican City.
~ Vatican City ~
A magnificent Christmas tree and life-sized Nativity scene or Presepi, is unveiled on Christmas Eve and adorns St. Peter’s Square in front of the Basilica. Newly elected Pope Francis, will deliver his very first Christmas Eve Midnight Mass at 10 pm, inside St. Peter’s Basillica at the Vatican. {book tickets well in advance if you want to sit within St. Peter’s} If you can’t make it to Christmas Eve’s Mass, you can always attend Christmas Day Mass at 12 pm with the “Urbi et Orbi” blessing by Pope Francis from the Central Loggia. {Vatican Apartment balcony} Rome’s Basilica, St. John Lateran, the Vatican’s main church until St. Peter’s was renovated in the 14th century, is still part of the Vatican State. On Christmas Eve, at 11.30 pm, accompanied by Rome Diocesis’ and Lateranense Music Chapel’s choirs – they will celebrate Mass in what was the first of Rome’s four Basilicas and the Western World’s most ancient Basilica. {St. John Lateran’s Address: 4, S. Giovanni in Laterano Square.}
~ Rome ~
The festivities generally begin on December 6th with ”La Festa di San Nicola” to honor St.Nicholas the patron Saint of the Sheperds and end on January 6 with “La Festa dell’ Epifania” The epiphany.
You can explore one of the eternal city’s 600 churches and compare the Nativity scenes (presepi). Piazza del Popolo is filled with over a hundred intricately crafted Nativities designed by local artisans and children. You will find a plethora of artistic perspectives among this expansive display of Presepi. 
Take an evening stroll (La Passeggiata) to Piazza Navona, where you’ll find a bright and sparkling Christmas Market filled with traditional gifts and sweet treats for everyone on your list. Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) makes his way around the piazza, and you may just see an early appearance from La Befana as well. 
You’ll also find musicians, traditional bagpipers (zampognari) and flutists (pifferai) descend on Rome from the regions of Abruzzo and Calabria to play traditional Christmas music for the masses. Known by their traditional garb, sheepskins vests, leggings, white stockings that are bound by leather-laced shoes strapped up to their knees. Topped off with long woolen cloaks worn over their shoulder they can be found wandering around Rome’s historical center, especially near Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, and at the gates of St. Peter’s Square.
Natale all’Auditorium The Parco della Musica, get in the holiday spirit with lots of fake snow and a festive lineup including dance recitals, chamber music concerts, puppet shows, and a 2,000-square foot ice-skating rink. Auditorium Parco della Musica, located at Viale Pietro de Coubertin.
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day Masses are held in historic churches throughout the city. Rome becomes eerily silent from around 7 p.m. to just before midnight on Christmas Eve, when it comes backs to life when church bells start ringing after Christmas Eve Masses around the city.
A Mass is celebrated at the Pantheon on the 24th at midnight, where you’ll hear beautiful Gregorian chants. You don’t need tickets, but you should be there by 10 p.m. to get a seat. Another very central location is the huge church of S. Maria degli Angeli. Mass starts at 11:30pm but from 10pm you can enjoy their choir and admire their intricately carved pipe organ. If you are a Latin Mass traditionalist, Ss. Trinità dei Pellegrini, in the heart of Rome, near Via Giulia, is a good choice with their Masses at Midnight and at 11 am on Christmas day. On Capitoline Hill, Church of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, is the official church of the Italian Senate and the Roman people. Candles adorning each of the 124 steps leading to its entrance is magical pathway. Once inside, the statue of baby Jesus (Santo Bambino) – carved out of wood taken from an olive tree in the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus prayed before his crucifixion – is waiting to be unveiled for just one day of the year. 
If you are looking for a Mass in English, the stunningly beautiful baroque church of Santa Susanna awaits you. The Vigil Mass in Rome’s US National Catholic Church will start at 7:05 pm – with the Christmas carols commencing at 6:30pm. However, it’s the 4:30pm – Children’s Pageant Mass you really don’t want to miss. Christmas Day Mass is at 10:30am. English Masses are also held at the S. Silvestro church in the homonym square at 7:30 pm on the 24th and at 10am and 5:30pm on Christmas day; St. Patrick’s, the Irish Augustinians’ church, at 10am for Christmas and S. Isidoro, the Irish Franciscans’ church, at 10am on the 25th.
Christmas Services for other Christian denominations are available throughout the city. The American Episcopal Church of St. Paul’s Within the Walls, in Via Nazionale, holds Advent Lessons and Christmas Carols on December 23 from 5pm. On Christmas eve music starts at 10:30pm, while Christmas morning mass is at 10:30. At St Andrews, the Presbyterian Church of Scotland, service begins at 6:30pm on Christmas Eve. The Anglican church of All Saints, between the Spanish steps and Piazza del Popolo, holds Mass Services at 11:30 pm on the 24th and at 8:30am and 10:30am on Christmas day. The Rome Baptist Church, in the very central Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 35, holds a candlelight Eve service at 7pm and a Christmas celebration at 10:30am. Protestants, can find services at All Saints Anglican Church in Via del Babuino.
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On Epiphany, (Jan. 6) In Christian tradition, the Magi, also referred to as the Three Wise Men, Three Kings, or Kings from the East, are a group of distinguished foreigners who are said to have visited Jesus after his birth, bearing gifts of gold, myrrh and frankincense. They are regular figures in traditional accounts of the nativity and in celebrations of Christmas.
On the Epiphany, Piazza Navona, is filled with families buying traditional treats and coal-black candy to celebrate La Befana. According to the Italian legend, La Befana lived on the road the three wise men took on their journey to visit the baby Jesus. The three wise men on camels loaded down with gifts, approached La Befana’s house as she was busy working. They stopped to ask directions to Bethlehem and to ask if she could provide them with food and shelter for the night to see if she might join them on their journey. La Befana was too busy to talk to the wise men. Later she changed her mind and decided she should have gone with the wise men. 
La Befana gathered up some gifts and set off in search of the Christ Child. Like the three wise men she followed the bright star shining in the sky. She was not able to find the stable where the Christ Child lay. Befana did not give up and to this day is still looking in every home for the Christ Child. She flies on her broom to each house that is home to a child. La Befana leaves gifts in every house she visits in case one of them happens to be the Christ Child. If a child is particularly naughty she is said to leave a lump of coal in their house.
A Christmastime spent in Rome and Vatican City – the sights, sounds, smells, and most importantly the celebration of the birth of the Christ child are sure to be treasured memories by all who experience it.
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